Born in southeast Texas, gay, lived in Tokyo and Paris, studied economics in school, Chandler Burr now writes restrained and densely evocative prose about fragrance. He’s poised for a Butt Magazine profile any day now.
I was happy when he affirmed my scent of choice, writing, “With Dior Homme, IFF perfumeur Olivier Polge has not only created a stunning scent. He has (under Hedi Slimane’s creative direction; Slimane also designed the bottle, which is perfect, the most handsome masculine fragrance bottle in, oh, the history of the world) created what may some day be seen as a seminal piece of work. Polge has created a subtly spectacular iris. [...] Iris, handled correctly, is liquid good taste. It also, incidentally, does not exist. It is impossible for technical reasons to wring any natural scent from iris flowers, and all iris scents are created with synthetic molecules.”
Here are some choice quotes from his column in NYT’s The Moment:
“As has been widely noted, the definitions of “natural” and “organic” are more theological than empirical, and “All-Natural” in its fanatic form is the Left’s creationism. There is nothing wrong with synthetic raw materials in scent, architecture, painting, or music.”
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“Ropion openly played on the raw, green, untamed aspects of tuberose, its petals hung heavily with thick perfume like pounds of pearl necklaces roping a neck, mixed with the violent, oozing, fresh green sap of tender stems scissored in two. Benaim, by contrast, has taken tuberose, stripped away its weighty, narcotic aspects and, like an expert olfactory pastry chef, deftly folded it into a sunny, glamorous perfume that is as flawlessly powdered as the face of the movie star at the table next to you, lunching on the roof deck of the Beverly Hills Peninsula.”
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“This is Chanel’s version of the masculine cliché, the scent equivalent of “Spiderman 2” and an endlessly repackaged formula. The masculine cliché smells, always, of generic citrus and generic spice with a bit of tin-can metallic. Like a Hollywood action blockbuster, the ingredients are invariable: Throw in some linalyl acetate for fake bergamot, dihydrogeraniol for fake lemon, dihydromercenol for laundry detergent (tennis player in shower) and galaxolide for cheap synthetic musk. You’re done. (There’s nothing wrong with synthetic materials; the failure here is lack of imagination.)”